I was sat inside Dubs Hut, a mountain Bothy near Honnister Slate Mine. It’s devoid of any human life, so I’ve decided to sit in comfort in the Bothy and cook my tea and read my book, rather than set up my tent. I was expecting it to be closed and locked. So it looks like a night under a proper roof rather than under canvas. There’s a slight feeling of guilt, let me be clear, nothing to do with the pandemic, the guilt is I really ought to be wild camping under canvas. 🤷‍♂️

After months of restrictions, I’ve at last managed to get away into the mountains, not my usual haunt, either. The Lake District and the Ennerdale Horseshoe. There’s no set route as far as I could tell so I’ve created my own, a tad under 50km and I’m taking three days.

I left home at 6am and arrived at Bowness Knot car park at 10:15. Good journey. First day 13.5km to Dubs Hut, just to ease myself back in gently. Bit of a shock as the first 2km were a baptism of fire, from 120m to 616m. I lost a fair amount of body moisture and realised how loud my heart is when pumping 160 odd times a minute! I eventually settled into a rhythm and the next couple of summits along the ridge fell fairly easily. My backpack, with camera and associated items that have to come along with the camera, weighted 16kg. After three to four hours of walking I began to notice the weight and it was rubbing on the two nobly bones at the top of my hips, which is a little uncomfortable. Compeed, hopefully to the rescue!

What I’m really trying to say is that the day took me longer than I’d planned, which doesn’t bode well for tomorrow, which is over 10km longer. Am I unfit, I hope not. I think more that it’s been a while since I carried that sort of weight over serious mountainous terrain for such a length of time.

Enough moaning. It’s been a fabulous day. So, so, weather, light showers off and on for most of the day with a cold North wind. The weather, though did create a wonderful atmosphere, with the thunderous rolling clouds blowing over the summits of Great Gable and Pillar, dappled with intermittent sunshine, a scene I could have watched all day…as long as I don’t mind getting wet and cold!

I lit a fire in the Bothy’s wood stove and cooked my diner…well, say cooked, I added hot water to a dehydrated packet mix. Chilli Con Carne with Rice and Rice Pudding with Cinnamon. A perfect end to a day, months in the waiting.

Sleeping for me, is always a little fitful outside my own bed. As expected I woke up early and decided to change my route due to the slow progress I made yesterday. I’d added a small loop to the Horseshoe so as to include Fleetwith Pike and then the café at Honister Slate Mine, my bit of guilty please! I made the choice to forgo my coffee and cake and instead headed for Brandreth and on to Green Gable. Near the summit of Brandreth I walked into the cloud and a view that was to stay with me until I descended Great Gable, a view common to many serious mountain walkers and one I try to avoid…a view of the inside of a cloud that’s moving at considerable speed, chilling the air to below freezing. Unlike my normal walks where the weather dictates my movements, here I had to work with the weather and cope with whatever it threw at me.

As I said I don’t go to the Lake District very often and the last twice I’ve been my, view from the summit of Great Gable has been identical, white, grey, snow, ice and limited to about 10m. As I descended towards Beck Head and Kirk Fell, the going got a tad steep, but I was following a path of sorts down the screes that Great Gable is so famous for. I have to say I had great fun scree riding, it’s been years since I’ve found a scree that has not been ruined by years of over use! I need to confess here, that I took the wrong path down Great Gable, the end result, however, was the same.

The pull up Kirk Fell, then Pillar were steep and steady, but most importantly the view from the summits ware worth every step.

Once I reached the final main peak, Scoat Fell the going got easier, the cloud stayed above me and the sun made the odd appearance. All the serious ascents of the Horseshoe were now behind me. My feet felt heavy, my shoulders were rubbing on the straps of my rucksack and those two nobly bones either side of the base of my spine were sore, even with the compeed on. I’d learned some lessons: one if I’m going to carry my heavy camera gear then I need to use one of my larger rucksacks or reduce the weight by carrying my Sony compact rather than the DSLR and two lenses. The Sony compact worked well whilst bivvying the previous year on the Pembrokeshire Coast Path.

The last few kilometres to where I hoped to camp were easy going. Springy underfoot and steadily downhill. My eventual choice of campsite, not exactly where I originally proposed, but sheltered, had a wonderful view back up Ennerdale and Pillar and the changing evening light drew both my camera and my eye. I was at peace.

The night was windless and cold, -5 or -6 degrees, a little too cold for the sleeping bag combination I had with me, but most importantly it was great to be out away from this mad world. No holier than thou, do gooders judging my every movement and my every word.

The following day was very short. A walk down to Ennerdale Water and an easy walk back to the car. A great couple of days. Very much looking forward to the final trips down to the South West Coast Path with Andrew and Caroline. Just three to go before we break out the champagne 🥂.