And then we were three!

Mark & Jeremy

Chester Services on the M56, not the most romantic place for my first illicit meeting with Mark. I’ve done it solo, as a pair and even as a foursome and some of you will know that Fourplay is quite a regular theme, but a threesome, well that’s new to me. I’m always up for something new!

A Very Dank Wales

Jeremy and I are slowly moving north, making our way around the Lleyn Peninsula. A conventional relationship, but that conventional friendship is about to change, as Mark a loquacious Mancunian is to join us as we make our way around the Wales Coast Path. He had taken in all that Jeremy had told him about our wild camping trips… walking for miles along a desolate coast, camping on wind swept cliff tops, surviving overnight storms to then walk, wet, weary and windswept until our legs gave out.

Wet!

The reality, of course, is somewhat different. Neither, Jeremy or I are adverse to a sudden change of plan, where a stay in somewhere a little more luxurious than a one man tent can materialise and this trip was just one of those occasions!

We met up on the first day, as always, with every intention of camping under the stars, in reality when we looked for a suitable wild campsite, we couldn’t find one so we booked an AirBnb. Mark was a little disappointed as he’d spent £50 on a brand new tent and had, unfortunately, bragged to all and sundry that he would be camping under the stars no matter what the weather… he obviously doesn’t know Jeremy and me very well!

Grey!

The Premier Inn where we stayed the first night before we started walking was 6km from our start point , but both Jeremy and Mark wanted to start from our hotel in Porthmadog, rather than take a taxi to the where we finished last time. It didn’t bother me, but an extra 6km on top of 19 is a fairly considerable increase! The weather forecast for the day was so, so, but the rain kept off for the morning and unlike last time there were no distractions as the path was devoid of any humanity other than ourselves, so the new sociable me, had no one to talk to. Therefore, Progress was good and Mark appeared to be enjoying himself. The weather deteriorated, considerably in the afternoon and the promised rain arrived and Mark’s disappointment of not sleeping in a tent wained with every step.

We ended up staying in the Premier Inn again at the end of the first day rather than the AirBnb, I won’t go into why, as the fault was partially mine and partially the owner of the AirBnb’s. So I’m not going to rant about a bad experience as AirBnb has served me very well for many years.

The next day we took one car to the end of the days walk and then moved on to the beginning with the other. To say that the day started a little damp was an understatement. February turned out to be one of the wettest months on record and North Wales seemed to get more than its fair share! The walking, although damp was for the most part flat and easy and Marks baptism was not one of fire, but just gentle glowing embers as we walked just above the tide line on the beach. As the day progressed the weather improved and our last two or three kilometres were in glories sunshine and the damp wet two days were suddenly transformed into two days of glorious sunshine… memory has a habit of forgetting the pain and remembering just a sunshine, I believe they call it typed two pleasure!

Type 2 Pleasure! 🤦‍♂️

Did Mark enjoy the walk? I assume so as he’s booked to come on the next trip in May… maybe, just maybe, we’ll use our tents or even our bivvy bags!

The Sun Appeared

Can I just say that this has been posted two months after we did the walk… the May walk is nearly upon us!

Walking with the Socially Inept!

Portmerion

Jeremy and I are once again meeting in a strange car park in the middle of Wales… (disclaimer no sheep were hurt on this walk)! The car park was in Blaenau Ffestiniog just a short distance from the campsite we will be using on Tuesday night. We’re repeating what we did last time. We’re leaving the tents pre-erected at a campsite halfway through the walk. Cheating… maybe, but neither of us cares!

Luxury!

As is so often the case with coastal walks, the tents are just a couple of kilometres from our starting point, that is if you don’t mind getting wet or worse and with a heavy rucksack on, even drowning! In the way is the Glaslyn and Dwyryd Estuaries. Not massive detours but enough to make that two or three kilometres, 20 odd kilometres! However, before we contemplate the estuary walk the luxury of a hotel in Portmerion awaits. I’m told by Carolynn that I’ve been there before, but for the life of me I can’t remember. I’m not going to go into the history of Portmerion here, except to say that it’s an eccentric’s folly made famous by the TV program ‘The Prisoner’. I’m sure that many historians will be jumping up and down at my short description of such an amazing place, but if you’re interested Google it.

After an incredible breakfast, surpassed only by our Bacon and Egg butty the following morning, we set off to our start point. The parking is actually on the beach, a very long shallow beach. So I’m a tad dubious at leaving the car there even though I parked it as high up the beach as possible. What was a little off putting was that the tidal line appeared to come very close to the rear wheels of my car! I walked away from the car wishing I had the faith that we would see it again.

Avocado & Poached Egg!

The first stop was just 100m into the walk, a lady, of similar age to ourselves, walking her dogs. I don’t know what came over me but I started up a conversation. Jeremy was stunned, he was actually speechless, as we talked about the coast path and a number of other walk’s in far distant lands. I have no idea why or how the conversation started, all I know is that it actually felt quite satisfying! A one off, surely.

A Time to Talk & Stand & Stare!

45 minutes later it happened again! A couple on a week’s holiday were looking out over the estuary, I was a few metres in front of Jeremy deciding whether or not to keep my poncho on or risk removing it only to have to stop a few metres further down the path when it threatened rain once again, when I came head to head with the aforementioned couple. Rather than putting my head down and mumbling an incoherent greeting as I passed them, which would have been normal for me, I stopped and started up a conversation. Not the usual conversation about the weather but a more meaningful one about the local history and the couples many trips to the area. Jeremy, although still a little aghast at my conversational prowess, managed to contribute and then finally to talk us into an exit strategy, which after 30 minutes was required if we were to get on the move properly.

A View with Lunch

The rest of the day was spent talking and walking as only two older gentlemen can. The talk was of past prowess, putting the world to rights and how hard it is being retired!!! Until one kilometre before the end of our walk, we passed an elderly gentleman on an e-Bike taking his dog for a walk and if my mouth didn’t open again, another 10 minutes of my life wasted with small talk… why I asked myself? 10 minutes later we passed him again on his return and if we didn’t then spend another 30 minutes chatting about his life in Wales after moving from Solihull!

Tent life, living life as nature intended, free from modern technology and all the trappings of modern life! Life doesn’t get any better, two old friends, relaxing in our tents thinking of… well actually a pub meal, rather than the dehydrated pulled pork cardboard I was about to cook for us. The pub won the day and did either of us feel guilty… absolutely not. We also used this time to go and fetch my car from its dubious position on the beach and took it to the end of the walk. It would save us negotiating the public transport the following day.

Breakfast was once again not one of my gourmet meals of dehydrated porridge but after a short walk was a bacon and egg cob from Spar! It was here that once again we were to meet one of those locals that can only be found in ‘Little Britain’, his name ‘Bomber’. Nothing unusual about that, a very respectful nickname, until you hear on how he got it. It’s not a question we asked but it was freely given, anyway…it seems that he was unable to control his bowel movements during his school days!!! He only went into the Spar shop to buy his daily paper, how we managed to attract his attention, I’ve no idea. I’ve come to the conclusion that Jeremy and I must have the type of faces that attract some very strange personalities.

We were walking on the outer rim of the second named storm of the season and the winds were beginning to increase, the sand was blowing low across the ground swirling over driftwood causing ripples of sand to gently advance like an on coming tidal wave. We were struggling to make headway, with our heads bent into the wind, and our hoods up as we slowly made our way up the beach. We were at this point, on a section of beach that both of us were looking forward to. A designated ‘naturist beach’. It seems that a storm in the middle of November isn’t necessarily the best time to ogle at middle aged nudists on a beach! We were, I have to say, a tad disappointed.

The start of the storm

The end was in sight, so another section completed and the next one booked for February 2024!

The finish

Popping of a Cherry!

Aberaeron – Sunset

Jeremy’s Cherry, not something I’d usually discuss on a public forum. But six months ago Jeremy, an old school friend, indicated that he’d like to be included if I did more of the Wales Coast Path. As many people have learned to their cost, if you suggest something to me that I want to do, then consider it booked!

So it all began on a cold damp Wednesday morning in January, probably not the best time of year to wild camp for the first time in your life, especially at 61. We started at Cardigan Bay a small town in South West Wales on a morning of mizzle (misty, drizzle), full of confidence of a 25km first day. A reasonable distance especially when you consider that Jeremy was carrying a 12 – 15kg pack, heavy for a novice.

Great Company

The views were limited and the colours muted, a Wales I recognise from my many trips to Snowdonia, a Wales pictured in black & white. Artistic in its light and multiple shades of grey. To me beautiful as the different shades change continually as you walk from crest to crest. Jeremy also, appeared to take in the scenery with as much enthusiasm as me, which made a cynical, unsociable old git, like myself, enthuse even more.

Steep Descents and Mist Rolling Inland

Coastal paths, they’re flat, aren’t they? Sea level is sea level, it’s at the same height wherever you are? If I said that the SouthWest Coast path is equivalent to climbing Everest three times, you’ll get my drift that the path is by no means flat. So the first day was a baptism of fire with 898 metres of ascent. The accents and subsequent descents were not long but were numerous and steep! At no time did Jeremy complain, I knew he’d had enough near the end of our day as the light was fading from both his eyes and the sky and a wild camp site was not obvious. Me, I’m not a purest and as we walked into the village of Llangrannog the wild camp was the B&B at Pentre Inn! Perfect.

Wild Camping!

Day two was different again, clear blue sky’s with that wonderful crisp winter light. Our heavy packs were left behind at the Inn, to be picked up later, and just a light day pack carried. Jeremy’s feet were bloodied and painful with blisters, but he rose above the pain and had eyes that saw only the beauty that is the British Coast line. Today we met ‘people’, I don’t do ‘people’, but Jeremy found out the life story of every one we passed. We met the parents of the lad that worked behind the bar at the Pentre Inn, where we stayed the previous night. A woman who had come over from Australia and got stuck here during the Covid lockdown and married a local! I was enthralled to witness, an expert socialite at work and even I chipped in the conversation every now and again.

One of the Many Ascents!

Today was shorter in distance but the ascents were greater and more frequent, so the day took longer and made longer still by the many sociable stops. We eventually wandered into Aberaeron the end of our walk, as the sun was setting and Jeremy’s ‘Walking Cherry’ was popped!

Jeremy’s Load!

I hope to continue the path we’ve started together, it’s a long meandering walk past some of the most scenic coast line and mountains that Wales and Britain has to offer.