Camp Grey is the starting point of the ‘W’ Trek. I don’t think I’ve explained what exactly the ‘W’ and ‘O’ Treks are. The ‘O’ trek is the less popular 130km walk that encompasses the full circuit of the Torres del Paine Massif. It also includes the more popular ‘W’ trek, that covers the south side of the massif. The northern section of the ‘O’ trek is more remote and although there are campsites and refuges at regular intervals, they are, as a rule, a little more basic than those found on the ‘W’ trek. There are a number of ways to walk both treks, staying at the refuges, camping in pre erected tents or eco tents (don’t get me started on eco tents!!!) or being self sufficient and carrying your own tent. Wild camping is prohibited within the National Park, so you have no choice but to camp at the designated sites, which has the bonus of not necessary having to carry all your own food. The ‘W’ trek is far more popular as it’s both shorter and the accommodation, food etc. is somewhat better than its northern counterpart.
Day 5 of the trek was from Camp Grey to Camp Paine Grande. A fairly leisurely wander down by the side of Lago Grey. People were coming at us in all directions, as unlike the northern section of the ‘O’ trek, which can only be walked anti-clockwise, the ‘W’ trek can be done East to West or visa versa. I don’t mind people, but I feel a lot better about them when they are somewhere other than on the same path I’m on! Seriously, though, I love to see so many people enjoying, what is one of the most walked treks in the world and I was fully aware of that when I booked it. What I wasn’t fully aware of was that 90% of people on the walk used walking poles and it appears that most of them haven’t got a clue that they are even carrying them, never mind using them in a sensible manner! And I have bruises on both my legs and feet to prove it. It seems that moving to one side to let people past, means that they can stomp past you totally unaware that you also take up part of the path and when one of those titanium spiked poles is ;pressed onto one of your feet… it’s painful. While I’m ranting about trekking poles and their inappropriate use, I’m going to have another rant. As I’ve said the views and the joy they give me along this trek as on many treks I’ve wandered are the sole reason I’m there. I assume that’s why others are there. I believe from what I’ve seen that the human race will evolve over the next millennia to have eyes in the back of their heads… as many of the trekkers didn’t see any of the views. All they ever saw was a 12cm by 5cm screen reflecting their image on an out of focus landscape. You can call me what you like and I’m happy to identify as anything, but for me it’s all about seeing those views and taking the time to take in and digest Mother Nature’s beauty. I know I spend a great deal of time with a camera in front of my face, but I’ve learned that I also need to just sit and enjoy the scene.
The following day saw us walking up the Frances valley, the there and back of the ‘W’ trek. The weather was perfect as were the views. We dropped off our packs at Camp Italiano and made our way up to Mirador Frances and Mirador Britanico and it’s here that you really begin to I understand why this is one of the worlds most popular treks. At Mirador Frances the raw power of nature is revealed as hanging glaciers are precariously balanced on what appears to be a shear rock face. A sound like thunder would regularly fill the air and all eyes would scan the rock face, looking for the avalanche as the ice was no longer able to keep its purchase on the rock. Mirador Britanico was different again. as you gained height along the wooded path, the valley to the left suddenly opened up into a massive amphitheatre with a headwall of enormous rock towers. It was mesmerising, a time to sit and realise how privileged I am as I dozed in the heat of the afternoon sun.
Of mice and men… it seems that mice will often get the better of you! Why should I mention mice, well we encountered a few at Camp Frances. All I lost was a lightweight water bottle that I’d purchased especially for the trek, Holly was lucky she lost nothing, but Andrew was awakened by a mouse running over his head and a sinking feeling as his blowup mattress was no longer able to sustain the purpose that it was designed for. At 1am Andrew was busy repairing teeth holes in his mattress, not just one set, but three, the mouse, quite obviously felt comfortable snuggling in his down filled bed! At breakfast Andrew poured his granola only to find that the top was not the only place the contents poured from, let’s just say he had extra currents in his granola that morning! People squeeze toothpaste tubes in many different ways from the top, from the bottom and sometimes the middle, I think it has caused many a divorce or certainly been the last straw, but when you squeeze a toothpaste tube and the contents come out not only at the top but from numerous other small holes then you know it’s time to catch that mouse and give it a good talking to.
The penultimate day was another gentle wander by Lago Nordenskjold, giving some spectacular views south before we slowly ascended to Camp Chileno and the Three Towers.