The climb down from Camp One took just half the time than on the way up. Then a helicopter out of Base Camp to the metropolis that is Lukla. The world looks very different from the air, a full 3 dimensional map. The ride wasn’t as good as in 2015 as this pilot had a schedule to keep to, but it was still one to savour.

Lukla was a bit of a culture shock. I was put up in a hotel with an en-suite bathroom, with a shower, sit down toilet and sink… maybe not Premier Inn standard but it was far better than an outside squat on the rocks toilet, a shower that was a bucket and cup and a bedroom that was somewhat drafty with flexible cloth walls, limited headroom and a solid mattress, commonly called a ‘tent’.

Lukla has thrived due to having ‘the worlds most dangerous airport’, which has made it the gateway to the Everest and Makalu regions of the Himalaya and is probably the most popular region for tourist in the Himalaya, with access to Everest Base Camp, the trekking peaks of Mera Peak, Island Peak etc and of course access to three of the highest mountains in the world. It’s a place that caters for the trekker and climber, giving that home familiarity for those returning from the mountains and those about enter into their own journal of self discovery (just taking the mick as most of you know, I believe a ‘journey of self discovery is a load of b…..ks). It has an Irish Pub! But then what town doesn’t! There used to be a Starbucks… I have a feeling that it wasn’t their coffee, but it was still a great advert for them, knock off or not. That however has been replaced by an Illy. I think it’s authentic! Wi-fi is available everywhere, it’s just like home! Most people fly in and out, but we’re going to walk out, so the journey south to Kathmandu begins.

The first days trek was uneventful , 10km, 740m of descent and 630m of ascent. But the interesting thing is that the privileged OAP’s, like me have disappeared, to be replaced by youngsters making their own way up to Everest Base Camp or the Three Pass Circuit. They are mainly self guiding. A confidence that I no longer have. I have to say it makes me extremely happy to see these twenty somethings independently making their way up to these lofty places.

The second day was 1,300m of descent with 300m of ascent, I just get the feeling that there’s going to be a sting in the tail on the third day. Tshering said the views from our Lodge will be fantastic and views generally don’t come low down!

I thought I’d pay for the last two days of reasonably easy walking and today’s the day! I’m drenched in my own bodily fluids, all I want to do is stick my head in the running water of a moulin. Instead I’m 2,100m up and it’s over 20 degrees! I’m now sat at 2,500m looking down on the village I’ve just walked through, having lunch. There are terrace’s of Maze, Barley, Beans and would you believe Tomatoes! It’s a wonder to me how they manage to grow anything when you compare them to our sometimes 10 acre fields!

The path mainly leads us through the dark trees and I miss what really is quite a big village and the biggest building is the Secondary School, which I assume is fed by the many other small villages in the valley. The dirt road you can see is fairly new, it has absolutely no traffic on it! The reason’s simple, at the bottom of the valley where this road and the one that will eventually go to Lukla meet there is a Dudh Kosi River, which originates in the Everest area and by this point is not a river you’d like to try and ford, even with a vehicle! It’s a ragging torrent, to put it mildly and guess what isn’t yet anywhere near completion… a bridge!

The only thing that spoils the peace and quite, besides my tinnitus, is the constant stream of helicopters and aircraft coming in and out of Lukla Airport… I won’t moan as I’ve used both on a number of occasions! But sometimes I do long for that absolute quite we got at Camp One on Barunste.

Sorry this is a bit disjointed, but I’m writing it on the go.

200m of descent and 1,600m of ascent. A tough day, but I’m now on the crest of Taksindu La in a great lodge at 3,071m… I don’t appear to have lost any height from Lukla, in fact I’ve bloody well gained a couple hundred metres, but I’m told the views will be worth it, that’s assuming the cloud disappears, which I’m sure they will. Hopefully two days here then down again!