Kilimanjaro – Day 2

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10 hours in my tent. I have to admit it didn’t come as a surprise, as it gets dark at 6:30pm and doesn’t get light again until 6:30am. So after dinner generally it’s off to snuggle up in your sleeping bag and wait for the sun to rise again. One of the signs of ageing is one’s bladder control is not as good as it used to be, so the thought of 10 hours in a tent sends shock waves through one’s bladder. But there is an answer, a ‘Pee Bottle’, everyone laughs but when it’s minus five outside the tent at 3am and I’m having a nice warm pee inside the tent and the others are fumbling about in the darkness looking for a tree to pee against… who’s laughing then!

At 6:30am I get up expecting Colin to be fast asleep. He has a deserved reputation for being the last to get ready. But he’s up had a cup of coffee and packed his bags, I’m speechless. After getting up thinking I’d have plenty of time, I have to rush my ablutions and hurriedly pack my bags as Colin’s tent is by this time being taken down and two porters are looking at me in discussed, hurrying me with their pointed stares to quickly finish packing. I just hope that Colin can’t keep this up!

Two very important people that as of yet I haven’t mentioned. The two guides, Imran and Francis. I’m pretty sure that’s not their real names, but ones they use for us pathetic Europeans, who are unable to pronounce their given names. These guys are the ones who are responsible for our complete wellbeing during our time on the mountain. Their aim is only to please us and answer to our every whim as long as we don’t walk off on our own or walk at a pace faster than they set! But you know what, their pace is perfect, it seems that years of experience on Kilimanjaro has proved them right, Pole Pole, (slowly slowly). Imran is the main man and setting aside all my flippant comments, he is an excellent guide and Francis makes sure we don’t stray from the straight and narrow.

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Today was 7km, initially through rainforest and then moorland. It was a reasonably easy day with a height gain of about 1,000m but the total ascent was 1,200m, so only 200m of unnecessary height loss! We arrived at Shira 1 camp just before midday… in time for lunch, spag bol, makes a change from the usual sandwich. We are now at 3,650m, and all seems well with the acclimatisation, no headaches, a slight loss of appetite, but I know that’s usual for me. The afternoon was spent on irrelevant pastimes, snoozing, drinking tea and reading all whilst sat out in the heat of the African sunshine.

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Kilimanjaro brushed away its veil of clouds in the late afternoon to perform one of the most beautiful sunsets I’ve witnessed. But as the sun went down so the temperature plummeted rapidly along with it. Down jackets made an appearance for the first time and me, wishing I hadn’t still got on my shorts.

Dinner was served and a warm sleeping bag awaited. Only 10 hours until I see the outside of my tent again!

Remind me to tell you about the DUST.

Heathrow to Doha to Kilimanjaro

Back at Heathrow on a Bank Holiday Friday, sat in Terminal 4 waiting to board a Qatar Airways flight to Doha. Always mixed feelings at this point. The, always heart wrenching goodbye to my long suffering wife, Carolynn and the excitement of heading to a new part of the world, Africa, a continent I’ve never visited and a mountain that is the highest single standing mountain in the world… Mt Kilimanjaro.

I’m doing it for the usual reasons, selfishness and solitary self satisfaction, not for charity, not because it’s there or to fulfill an inner journey to self-enlightenment! I’m sure my honesty will upset the dreamers amongst you, that believe life is a journey to another level of consciousness. I’ve lived too long and have become far too cynical to believe any of that high handed rubbish.

I’m meeting an old friend, Colin Zee who I first met on the Annapurna Sanctuary trek back in 2007 and then again to Island Peak in 2011. It’s a trek put together purely for the two of us by Ann of Trek Mountains. I believe the trek up the Lemosho Route is in total 67 km with a vertical ascent of 4,900 metres. The height gain is greater than that of Everest from Base Camp, but an 8,000 metre peak is at a different level of difficulty than Kilimanjaro and around 25,000 people attempt Kilimanjaro each year compared to 600 each year on Everest and the scant 306 that have ever summited K2!

Flight leaves in 20 minutes and still not on the plane, get the feeling it’s going to be late taking off!

Yep, an hour late taking off! And then at 11:30 they offer me a three course meal. I have to admit that after the delicious meal that my cousin cooked my stomach is screaming to be left in peace.

One of the flight attendants leaned over just before take off and asked if I minded moving to another seat… I could feel an upgrade coming on. It seems my feelings are forever optimistic! Another passenger wanted to sit with the rest of her family, how could I refuse. So I end up sitting next to a Scottish expat who now lives and works in Malaysia as a physiotherapist specialising in children. But appears to spend most of her time traveling.

Sleep time now. Next stop Doha.

I’m sat in the bowels of Doha international airport. I’ve found in the past that, that’s not always a good sign on what type of plane I’m about to board. Let’s hope it’s bigger than the planes that takes you from Kathmandu airport into the Himalaya!

First view

Kilimanjaro – isolated in its splendour